The menu mixes local specialities such as tagliatelle with ragù, and risotto with truffles and Parmigiano-Reggiano with more creative main courses, such as pork with peach sauce. Try a bottle of the ridiculously underrated (and cheap) pignoletto with your lunch and then sample the others on a tour of the cellar. The vineyard produces six reds and six whites, all made with grapes from its own yards. The views are spectacular as is the food and wine. Corte d’Aibo is an organic farm and vineyard set in the Apennine hills. And at the Agriturismo Corte d’Aibo, about 25km west of Bologna, you eat very well at any time of the year, but particularly now. Doubles from €100 B&B, Diana HubbellĪutumn in Emilia-Romagna means wine, truffles, mushrooms and chestnuts. Guests come from all over for foraging tours led by the aptly named Giovanni Cantarelli (“chanterelles”) and return bearing baskets of mycological gold. When mushroom season comes, the woods teem with porcini, chanterelles, black trumpets and other prized funghi. While the hosts are always happy to suggest hidden local spots for dinner or arrange, say, to watch wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano being made, make some time to soak in the bucolic splendour of the farm itself. A modest drive from Parma’s mythical charcuterie, Ferrara’s cappellacci di zucca (stuffed pasta with pumpkin, amaretti cookies, brown butter and sage), Modena’s honeyed vinegar, and Bologna’s silken tagliatelle, the farm’s location offers ample diversions for visiting gourmands. Bread here comes from the on-site wood-burning oven, while the subtly sweet liqueurs lining the shelves come from the neighbours. For nearly two decades, Giovanni and Cristina have been welcoming travellers with open arms – not to mention bountiful breakfasts of homemade tarts, cakes and jams from their organic fruit orchards. Its lushly forested surroundings surpass any Under the Tuscan Sun fantasies and while the husband-and-wife team speaks minimal English, their sense of hospitality transcends language barriers. Whimsical drawings of fate, or sprites, adorning the walls aren’t the only reason this agriturismo has a touch of magic. Agriturismo Funghi e Fate, Emilia-Romagna
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